TPMS Valve Stem Tips

TPMS Valve Stem Tips

No matter the type of stem, carelessness can result in a broken sensor.

Article courtesy Brake & Front End.

For 99% of wheel and tire assemblies, the TPMS sensor is either a clamp-on metal valve or a snap-in rubber stem. No matter the type of stem, carelessness can result in a broken sensor or even a customer being stranded with a flat tire.

Clamp-on Stems

Anytime a clamp-on TPMS sensor is reused or replaced on a wheel, it is necessary to install new seals and valve stem nuts to ensure proper sealing around the sensor valve stem. Pieces of the old seal can cause a slow leak. Do not lubricate or use a sealant in this area. This can change the torque values and cause you to snap the stem.

When inserting the sensor through the wheel, keep pressure against the rear of the metal valve stem. The potted side of the sensor is to be positioned toward the wheel. Mounting the sensor upside-down can cause relearn and transmission problems.

Grommets conform to the mating surface of the wheel. The instant the nut is torqued, the seal/grommet starts to take on the shape of the surfaces it is sealing against. This memory cannot be erased. If the seal is reused, it could cause a slow leak.

Never reuse these nuts. The nut is made of a softer metal than the stem, so it can be damaged or develop hairline cracks if it is over-tightened. The material of choice is typically aluminum. The new nut may have coatings on the threads that prevent corrosion and leaks.

The typical torque values for the base nuts on a TPMS valve stem range from as low as 35 in.-lbs. of torque to as much as 80 in.-lbs. of torque. That’s quite a range. Don’t guess on the torque for the nut – look up the torque specifications for the vehicle you are servicing to make sure you use the correct figures. Some TPMS service kits include the torque spec in the package. Leaks cannot be eliminated by tightening the nut more. Sealing grommets are engineered to work at a specific torque. 

Snap-In Sensors

Snap-in sensors can look like regular rubber valve stems. The difference is that the molded rubber on the snap-in valve stem does not reach the threads and there is a tapered shoulder. These valves have a longer cap than a non-TPMS valve stem.

Behind the stem is a mounting point for a self-tapping screw that holds the sensor to the stem. There are two installation methods depending on the type of snap-in valve stem you are installing. 

The first method is installing the valve stem in the rim and then attaching the sensor. The second method is to attach the sensor to the valve stem and then insert it into the wheel. Why? On some stems, the sensor could come in contact with the wheel as the stem is pulled with the sensor attached.

When attaching a new valve to the sensor body, always use a preset torque screwdriver with the correct Torx head or hex nut. Most tool suppliers package two preset torque drivers in a set. The torque settings may differ by manufacturer. The screw is self-tapping and can be used only once. The same applies to the stem.

When tightening the screw, be mindful of stress on the sensor and the alignment of the sensor. Start the screw for the first couple of threads and make sure the sensor and stem are aligned. When performing the final tightening sequence, stop when the tool clicks, which indicates that the proper torque has been reached.

Before installing the valve stem, it is acceptable to lubricate the seating surfaces with an approved tire lubricant. Do not use chassis grease or a grease with petroleum distillates. These types of lubricants can degrade the stem over time.

You May Also Like

Chassis Alignment

The source of the complaint can be the angles, electronics or tires.

Chassis alignment can be an art when you have to resolve a chassis or steering complaint from a customer. The source of the complaint can be the angles, electronics or tires. The diagnostic process can be more challenging than curing a misfire or no-start problem.

Your alignment bay should be treated as a colossal scan tool that can pull the angles from the vehicle so they can be used for chassis and suspension diagnostics. Performing camber and toe adjustments are just like calibrating a sensor, but the process is, of course, completely mechanical.

Active Suspension Service 

An active dampener allows for a ride without compromise.

Honda Ridgeline Caliper Replacement

The parking brake and hydraulics are where you’ll find any service issues.

An In-Depth Look At CV Axles

As the engine moves from the effects of torque and as the suspension of a vehicle travels up and down, the angle of the driveshaft changes.

MINI Alignment Tips

When looking over the service information or ordering parts for a MINI, you may run into the R-series numbers.

Other Posts
Multi-Link Front Suspensions

Why do some suspensions have so many ball joints? Here’s why.

Integrated Wheel Ends

The leading cause of IWE failure is water finding its way into the vacuum lines under the hood and in the wheel well.

Wheel Speed Sensors and Bearings

The only way to diagnose the sensor and circuit is with a scan tool or scope. 

7 Brake Myths Busted

There are some myths about brake pads, rotors and hydraulics that need to be busted.